|First tooling operations and set-up|
|Cylinder and Piston Machining Operations|
|Machining the Crankcase|
|Crankshaft and Other Parts|
|Tank Mount and Needle Valve|
|Timer, Timing, and Running|
Roger's instructions were written way before word processing on a manual clankety-bang typewriter (Google it), appearing as a multi-part series in the Engine Collectors' Journal, Issues 49 through 54, Jan/Feb 1974 to Feb/Apr 1975. The text on the pages indexed above has been scanned from his manuscripts and converted using Optical Character Recognition (OCR) software. It got it mostly right and we think we've found most of the glitches. The text was then edited to hyperlink the parts, removing back-references to series parts. If something does not make sense, please email us with a description and part reference.
I wish Roger and I had had the chance to revise these instructions (my fault). The ways in which you do things change over time as you learn—generally by making mistakes. I'm sure that the way Roger approached a job in 2005 was way different from the way he did in 1975. For instance, the use of a Dremal as a toolpost grinder to finish the cylinder bore and piston obviously worked, but there are better, easier ways. Likewise the use of steel for the piston. Cast iron is a better choice, especially if you want to try the diesel version of the engine. Sparkies don't need a lot of compression, so the "ground" finished with no lapping would probably pass muster. But feel free to substitute more familiar techniques from the How-to pages if you feel more comfortable with them. I know Roger wouldn't mind.
Ron Chernich, December 2009.