Tech Tip of the Month: Piston Rings
On the basis of having made precisely one set of piston rings, any claim I might make to knowledge on the subject must be viewed with a degree of scepticism. But I have researched the topic extensively, so the picture here virtually lept off the page at me while leafing through the April 1960 issue of long-gone UK magazine, Model Maker (this is the magazine that originally published Arthur Weaver's Weaver/Ransom 1cc diesel).
What's going on? Well it looks like ring-gapping Jim, but not as we know it. In fact, it's about up there with that tantalizing Lindsay publication titled something like Embalming at Home for Fun and Profit! The drawing came from a series by Mr LVR Haydock titled, "OTTER Step by Step. A 15cc OHV engine". The verbatum text that describes the picture says:
Piston rings are made from phos. bronze, or you can use centrifugal cast iron if you prefer this.
How to make them
Machine a length of bar to 1.127 in. if your bore size is 1.125 in. (1 1/8in.) finished. Bore out to .998. Ring grooves must have 3 thou. clearance on depth, so when machining grooves go in 3 thou. deeper than .0625 (1/16 in.) depth or rings will ride on bottom of grooves and will cause trouble. Part off four rings to 1/16 in. wide, then with teeth ground off on edge side of junior hacksaw blade cut through ring, or you can snap the ring with a sharp small cold chisel to make the gap.
Take one ring and place on a 3/8 in. round bar. Place on hard surface and roll till gap opens out to about 1/4 in. keeping the bar rolling from end to end as sketched. This will give rings radial pressure. The ring gap should be 2-3 thou. (.002 ro .003 in.) when in cylinder bore; test ring gap by inserting in bore to check gap. File gap if it hasn't got the right clearance.
The quoted gap when closed is perhaps a bit low for cast iron rings. SIC sources say 0.004" of gap per 1.0" of bore, and this rule of thumb is confirmed by Chastain's Making Pistons book, reviewed here this month. Somehow I think a junior hacksaw blade, even with teeth ground off both sides, would result in a larger gap. As for the method of cold-forming the required ring tension, it seems crude but it would probably work, though I expect the rings would require a significant running-in period.
Compare this with the Trimble method which takes a lot longer, but results in rings that need no bedding-in at all. Never the less, I've now seen enough farm-yard engineering techniques that despite looking like applied butchery, work just fine. So let's not dismiss this one out of hand until someone tries it. Or if you already know that it works, I'd be happy to hear about it. For myself, I think I'll be sticking with Trimble's approach.
Speaking of Model Maker magazine, The Library is short four issues in the 1955/56 period, specifically:
- #52: March 1955
- #55: June 1955
- #56: July 1955
- #62: January 1956
I've got a lot of duplicates I can swap, or I'm even willing to pay! If you can help, please let me know. Incidentally, I noticed that the first volume of Model Maker (1951) contains an article by LC Mason; small world, isn't it?
Broken Link Report
Stuff, as they say, happens. On this site, items occasionally become hard to find, or in the worst of cases, unreachable by any means. A Canadian reader alerted me to a broken link in the ET Westbury IC powered Road Roller pages. Investigation showed it was not so much broken as unfinished! In fact, over 30 pages of the series had never managed to get referenced. But all is fixed now, and double-checked forward and back. The road roller engine and its reversable, variable speed transmission are well worth looking over, even if land vehicles are not your thing. I can sort-of visualize how the main engine casting (pictured here) could be cored, but it would be a major undertaking. At least one of these has been built by fabrication; a task almost as daunting as making the required patterns! If anyone knows where a casting for one of these might be obtained, I'd be most grateful to hear about it.